· April 17, 2009 marks the 45th anniversary of the iconic Ford Mustang
· Thousands of Mustang enthusiasts from all over the world are gathering in Birmingham, Ala. to join Ford and the Mustang Club of American for a four-day celebration, including several original owners of the 19641/2 Mustang
· The Governor of Alabama has officially declared April 17th Mustang day in the state of Alabama to celebrate to occasion.
In conjunction with the 45th anniversary celebration, the new "The '10 Unleashed" campaign will give enthusiasts the chance to unleash their Mustang side behind the wheel of the new 2010 Mustang
Friday, April 17, 2009
Limited Edition Mustang FR500S Race/Track Car
Ford Racing is pleased to announce the availability of a limited number of the factory-built Mustang FR500S, a car designed, engineered, and built for America's road courses and open track days. A total of 77 race cars were built and last year, Ford dealers sold 40 cars in 2008. These race cars are built to race in the Ford Racing Mustang Challenge, an all-new professional road race series featuring this car. Only 37 cars remain available for purchase, making a very limited edition that much more attractive as both a track car and as a collectible piece of Mustang history. Ford Dealers who are interested in purchasing one of the remaining Mustang FR500S (M-FR500-S) are encouraged to enter their orders promptly. Cars ordered will be billed to the dealer's P&A Statement. Pricing for Part Number M-FR500-S has been reduced and is currently at $##,### Dealer Cost and $ 69,995 MSRP. Take advantage of this great opportunity on the remaining units. There are no plans to build additional FR500S once these units are sold out.
Important, Please Note: The Mustang FR500S is non-VIN non-Street Legal race car sold only through Ford Dealers thru the Ford Racing Catalog for the purposes of participation in open track days and/or the Ford Racing Mustang Challenge series (http://www.MustangChallenge.com). For more information on this exciting car, please visit http://www.fordracingparts.com/mustang/herocard2.asp.
GENERAL SPECS
Built at AAI in Flat Rock, Mich., the home of the Mustang
Roll cage built to SCCA, NASA and Grand-Am Spec
Factory-built and painted body shell with all sound deadening and seam sealer deleted
Complete safety system including integral side head restraint, a six-point HANS-compatible harness, and steering wheel with quick-release hub, fire suppression system and window net.
Lexan quarter and rear windows
AIM MXL Data Acquisition System
Master cutoff switch and center switch panel
Decontented wiring harnesses for minimum necessary functionality
Aero - Wing/Splitter
3:73-ratio axle with Ford Racing/Torsen differential
POWERTRAIN
Engine Type: Dyno-checked and sealed 4.6L 3-valve, fuel-injected V8
Bore/Stroke (mm): 90.2x90.0
Compression Ratio (in/mm): 9.8:1
Material: All Aluminum
Horsepower: 325
Ford Racing high capacity racing radiator and aluminum degas bottle
Ford Racing 84mm cold air intake kit
Ford Racing driveshaft loops
6-speed transmission with upgraded clutch and Ford Racing short-throw shifter
Recalibrated PCM, to 320+ horsepower
Ford Racing/Borla stainless steel long-tube headers and X- Pipe
CHASSIS/STEERING/BRAKES
Drivetrain Layout: Rear-wheel drive
Front Suspension: Two-way adjustable front dampers with coil springs, adjustable anti-roll bar
Rear Suspension: Live-axle; Panhard rod, two-way adjustable rear dampers with coil over springs, anti-roll bar
Ford Racing/Brembo 4-piston 14" Front brakes with race pads front & rear; Race ABS calibration
Ford Racing Front and Rear sway bars with 3-position front adjustment
Steering Type: Rack-and-Pinion
Ford Racing front strut tower brace
Ford Racing front camber/caster plate
Ford Racing rack-and-pinion steering
Important, Please Note: The Mustang FR500S is non-VIN non-Street Legal race car sold only through Ford Dealers thru the Ford Racing Catalog for the purposes of participation in open track days and/or the Ford Racing Mustang Challenge series (http://www.MustangChallenge.com). For more information on this exciting car, please visit http://www.fordracingparts.com/mustang/herocard2.asp.
GENERAL SPECS
Built at AAI in Flat Rock, Mich., the home of the Mustang
Roll cage built to SCCA, NASA and Grand-Am Spec
Factory-built and painted body shell with all sound deadening and seam sealer deleted
Complete safety system including integral side head restraint, a six-point HANS-compatible harness, and steering wheel with quick-release hub, fire suppression system and window net.
Lexan quarter and rear windows
AIM MXL Data Acquisition System
Master cutoff switch and center switch panel
Decontented wiring harnesses for minimum necessary functionality
Aero - Wing/Splitter
3:73-ratio axle with Ford Racing/Torsen differential
POWERTRAIN
Engine Type: Dyno-checked and sealed 4.6L 3-valve, fuel-injected V8
Bore/Stroke (mm): 90.2x90.0
Compression Ratio (in/mm): 9.8:1
Material: All Aluminum
Horsepower: 325
Ford Racing high capacity racing radiator and aluminum degas bottle
Ford Racing 84mm cold air intake kit
Ford Racing driveshaft loops
6-speed transmission with upgraded clutch and Ford Racing short-throw shifter
Recalibrated PCM, to 320+ horsepower
Ford Racing/Borla stainless steel long-tube headers and X- Pipe
CHASSIS/STEERING/BRAKES
Drivetrain Layout: Rear-wheel drive
Front Suspension: Two-way adjustable front dampers with coil springs, adjustable anti-roll bar
Rear Suspension: Live-axle; Panhard rod, two-way adjustable rear dampers with coil over springs, anti-roll bar
Ford Racing/Brembo 4-piston 14" Front brakes with race pads front & rear; Race ABS calibration
Ford Racing Front and Rear sway bars with 3-position front adjustment
Steering Type: Rack-and-Pinion
Ford Racing front strut tower brace
Ford Racing front camber/caster plate
Ford Racing rack-and-pinion steering
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Your Car Shopping Game Plan
Michael Royce | http://www.beatthecarsalesman.com
Sales data shown is of top 20 selling cars and trucks as compiled by Autodata Corporation.
1. Greet the car salesman warmly.
Smile and shake his hand. Be friendly. You want him to like you so that he'll work harder for you.
2. Get his attention by telling him what he wants to hear.
Tell him: "I'll be buying a car very soon." If after this introduction, you find the salesman rude or unwilling to help you, ask to speak to his Sales Manager. Tell the manager that you'd like a more helpful salesman.
3. Tell the car salesman exactly what you want to see.
Be specific as possible. For example: "I'd like to see what you have in a compact car with automatic transmission and a window sticker price of around $18,000." If you're not sure what you want or you're confused by all the choices, then tell him those things that you know are important to you, such as: "I need a four-door car with lots of cargo space and a window sticker price of around $18,000."
Under the guise of trying to help you, the salesman is going to ask you lots of questions. Do not discuss your monthly payments with him.
Then turn the tables on him. Ask him questions about the cars, the dealership and his business. Play dumb and try to learn as much as you can. Get him to like you by pumping his ego: compliment him on what a good job he's doing.
4. Check out the vehicles that he shows you.
When he shows you a car that you like - and that fits your needs and budget - look it over. Do you like the styling of the car? Can you see yourself driving it?
5. If it is a new vehicle, look at the factory window sticker.
The factory window sticker tells you all about the car. Read it carefully because it contains a lot of important information.
The window sticker will give you the predicted gas mileage for both highway and city driving. It will also list all of the equipment that comes standard with the vehicle and then, in a separate column, the options that have been built into the car at the factory with the price of each listed. Look for an "equipment package," a group of discounted options.
At the bottom of the sticker will be the asking price for the vehicle called the "M.S.R.P." which stands for "Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price". Be sure that this price fits your budget.
Some dealerships add a second window sticker called a "Dealer Addendum" in an effort to widen their profit margin. If you see one of these stickers, ignore it for now.
6. Ask about other versions of the same car.
Most vehicles come in several different equipment levels usually designated by a letter code such as DX, SE or XL. You might be able to get the same car with the equipment you want on a less expensive version.
7. If you like the car, sit inside.
Is the interior comfortable? How does the interior "feel"?
8. Ask the salesman if you can test drive the car.
He'll be happy to take you for a test drive.
Notice what's happening here: you're allowing the car salesman to breeze right through the steps of his game plan. He wants you to test drive that car. He thinks he's doing great and that he's in total control. What he doesn't know is that you know exactly what you are doing. In fact, you are in complete control here.
9. Drive the vehicle as you normally would.
Don't "baby" the car. If you normally accelerate hard, then drive it that way. If you normally brake hard or corner fast, then do so. Try to drive on the types of roads you normally drive. Be sure to turn the air conditioning on and off to see how it affects the performance of the engine. And don't forget to ask lots of questions.
10. After the drive, ask the salesman for a brochure.
He'll probably ask you something like: "Is there anything we can do to earn your business today?" or "If I could sell you this $18,000 car for only $12,000, would you buy it today?"
You must be firm and clear. Tell him: "I really appreciate all of your help but, as I told you at the beginning, I'll be buying soon but not today. I simply want a brochure and some information. If I decide to buy this particular car, then I will certainly come back to see you."
If the car salesman is a good guy, he'll get you the brochure. If not, he may disappear and then return with the "Sales Manager" who may or may not be the real Sales Manager. In any case, this new guy may try to "reason" with you, persuade you, perhaps even pressure you to buy today. Again, you must be firm. Repeat to him what you told the salesman.
Don't forget that they are playing a game. And you know exactly what game they are playing. So don't fall for their lines. Don't fall for their come-ons. And don't fall for their intimidation. There's nothing personal about this. It's pure business. That's how they see it. That's how you should see it, too. And don't forget that you have the final say. If they pressure you, you can always walk away.
If they won't give you the brochures you want, no worries. You can always get them direct from the manufacturer.
11. Ask the car salesman more questions.
Ask about factory rebates, the factory warranty, dealership service, local sales taxes, license fees and so on. When you're satisfied that you have the information you need, ask the salesman for his business card.
12. Thank the salesman politely -- then leave!
Whatever happens, under any circumstances, don't buy a car yet.
What should you do next? We recommend doing more research on the vehicle you drove, comparing it to others in its class and giving yourself time to think about it. As much as it feels like that one car won't be around if you pass it up, there's always another car.
Sales data shown is of top 20 selling cars and trucks as compiled by Autodata Corporation.
1. Greet the car salesman warmly.
Smile and shake his hand. Be friendly. You want him to like you so that he'll work harder for you.
2. Get his attention by telling him what he wants to hear.
Tell him: "I'll be buying a car very soon." If after this introduction, you find the salesman rude or unwilling to help you, ask to speak to his Sales Manager. Tell the manager that you'd like a more helpful salesman.
3. Tell the car salesman exactly what you want to see.
Be specific as possible. For example: "I'd like to see what you have in a compact car with automatic transmission and a window sticker price of around $18,000." If you're not sure what you want or you're confused by all the choices, then tell him those things that you know are important to you, such as: "I need a four-door car with lots of cargo space and a window sticker price of around $18,000."
Under the guise of trying to help you, the salesman is going to ask you lots of questions. Do not discuss your monthly payments with him.
Then turn the tables on him. Ask him questions about the cars, the dealership and his business. Play dumb and try to learn as much as you can. Get him to like you by pumping his ego: compliment him on what a good job he's doing.
4. Check out the vehicles that he shows you.
When he shows you a car that you like - and that fits your needs and budget - look it over. Do you like the styling of the car? Can you see yourself driving it?
5. If it is a new vehicle, look at the factory window sticker.
The factory window sticker tells you all about the car. Read it carefully because it contains a lot of important information.
The window sticker will give you the predicted gas mileage for both highway and city driving. It will also list all of the equipment that comes standard with the vehicle and then, in a separate column, the options that have been built into the car at the factory with the price of each listed. Look for an "equipment package," a group of discounted options.
At the bottom of the sticker will be the asking price for the vehicle called the "M.S.R.P." which stands for "Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price". Be sure that this price fits your budget.
Some dealerships add a second window sticker called a "Dealer Addendum" in an effort to widen their profit margin. If you see one of these stickers, ignore it for now.
6. Ask about other versions of the same car.
Most vehicles come in several different equipment levels usually designated by a letter code such as DX, SE or XL. You might be able to get the same car with the equipment you want on a less expensive version.
7. If you like the car, sit inside.
Is the interior comfortable? How does the interior "feel"?
8. Ask the salesman if you can test drive the car.
He'll be happy to take you for a test drive.
Notice what's happening here: you're allowing the car salesman to breeze right through the steps of his game plan. He wants you to test drive that car. He thinks he's doing great and that he's in total control. What he doesn't know is that you know exactly what you are doing. In fact, you are in complete control here.
9. Drive the vehicle as you normally would.
Don't "baby" the car. If you normally accelerate hard, then drive it that way. If you normally brake hard or corner fast, then do so. Try to drive on the types of roads you normally drive. Be sure to turn the air conditioning on and off to see how it affects the performance of the engine. And don't forget to ask lots of questions.
10. After the drive, ask the salesman for a brochure.
He'll probably ask you something like: "Is there anything we can do to earn your business today?" or "If I could sell you this $18,000 car for only $12,000, would you buy it today?"
You must be firm and clear. Tell him: "I really appreciate all of your help but, as I told you at the beginning, I'll be buying soon but not today. I simply want a brochure and some information. If I decide to buy this particular car, then I will certainly come back to see you."
If the car salesman is a good guy, he'll get you the brochure. If not, he may disappear and then return with the "Sales Manager" who may or may not be the real Sales Manager. In any case, this new guy may try to "reason" with you, persuade you, perhaps even pressure you to buy today. Again, you must be firm. Repeat to him what you told the salesman.
Don't forget that they are playing a game. And you know exactly what game they are playing. So don't fall for their lines. Don't fall for their come-ons. And don't fall for their intimidation. There's nothing personal about this. It's pure business. That's how they see it. That's how you should see it, too. And don't forget that you have the final say. If they pressure you, you can always walk away.
If they won't give you the brochures you want, no worries. You can always get them direct from the manufacturer.
11. Ask the car salesman more questions.
Ask about factory rebates, the factory warranty, dealership service, local sales taxes, license fees and so on. When you're satisfied that you have the information you need, ask the salesman for his business card.
12. Thank the salesman politely -- then leave!
Whatever happens, under any circumstances, don't buy a car yet.
What should you do next? We recommend doing more research on the vehicle you drove, comparing it to others in its class and giving yourself time to think about it. As much as it feels like that one car won't be around if you pass it up, there's always another car.
Best April Deals
by Gary Hoffman | AOL Autos
Posted: 6 April 2009
Ford and GM roared into April with new incentives tailored to the financial circumstances of many of their customers: They will pick up the tab for car payments if buyers lose their jobs. And with good reason: Once Hyundai sales introduced a similar program at the start of the year, it performed far better than the industry as a whole. The Korean automaker offered customers the chance to return their cars to the manufacturer if they lost their jobs, and it later beefed up the program with a commitment to pick up their car payments for several months.
In Pictures: 20 Great April Deals
The Ford and GM now have programs that vary significantly from the Hyundai plan -- and from each other. If a buyer loses his or her job, Ford says it's ready to provide monthly car payments for up to one year under its Ford Advantage Plan, while the commitment is up to nine months under the GM Total Confidence program. The Ford subsidy tops out at $700 a month, while the assistance from GM reaches a maximum of $500 monthly. The domestics should be credited for recognizing and seizing upon a good idea, and now they and the Obama administration might consider embracing a concept that has absolutely energized cars sales in Germany: a government-backed scrapping bonus that pays buyers thousands of euros if they take their old gas guzzlers and polluters off the road and buy a new, cleaner, more efficient vehicle. A similar program could help reduce oil imports into the U.S. and clean up the smog in American cities.
In Pictures: 20 Great April Deals
Editor's Pick: 2009 Ford Fusion
The Ford Fusion stands out as a great deal during April -- in no small measure due to the automaker's generous incentives and its new program to help buyers with their car payments out if their lose their jobs. Even without the automakers special incentives this month, the Fusion packs a lot of value into a nicely priced package. First of all, it is a mid-size car with major-league aspirations: it offers plenty of room for squiring clients around town or kids to their extra curricular activities. Even full-size adults don't have much of a problem climbing in and out or making themselves comfortable inside. Its invoice and suggested retail prices are low, too -- barely above those of the VW New Beetle. (Incidentally, the Fusion's fuel economy is roughly the same as the iconic retro compact's.) With the $3,500 rebate on the 2009 model, you are in effect getting a 20% discount. New buyers get a choice of front -- and all-wheel drive and two engines: a 2.3-liter, 160 horsepower, four-cylinder (with a five-speed manual or automatic transmission) or a 3.0-liter, 221-horsepower V6 (with a six-speed automatic). It comes in three trim levels and with a full complement of airbags as standard equipment.
Please Note: These deals only apply to the month listed above.
Posted: 6 April 2009
Ford and GM roared into April with new incentives tailored to the financial circumstances of many of their customers: They will pick up the tab for car payments if buyers lose their jobs. And with good reason: Once Hyundai sales introduced a similar program at the start of the year, it performed far better than the industry as a whole. The Korean automaker offered customers the chance to return their cars to the manufacturer if they lost their jobs, and it later beefed up the program with a commitment to pick up their car payments for several months.
In Pictures: 20 Great April Deals
The Ford and GM now have programs that vary significantly from the Hyundai plan -- and from each other. If a buyer loses his or her job, Ford says it's ready to provide monthly car payments for up to one year under its Ford Advantage Plan, while the commitment is up to nine months under the GM Total Confidence program. The Ford subsidy tops out at $700 a month, while the assistance from GM reaches a maximum of $500 monthly. The domestics should be credited for recognizing and seizing upon a good idea, and now they and the Obama administration might consider embracing a concept that has absolutely energized cars sales in Germany: a government-backed scrapping bonus that pays buyers thousands of euros if they take their old gas guzzlers and polluters off the road and buy a new, cleaner, more efficient vehicle. A similar program could help reduce oil imports into the U.S. and clean up the smog in American cities.
In Pictures: 20 Great April Deals
Editor's Pick: 2009 Ford Fusion
The Ford Fusion stands out as a great deal during April -- in no small measure due to the automaker's generous incentives and its new program to help buyers with their car payments out if their lose their jobs. Even without the automakers special incentives this month, the Fusion packs a lot of value into a nicely priced package. First of all, it is a mid-size car with major-league aspirations: it offers plenty of room for squiring clients around town or kids to their extra curricular activities. Even full-size adults don't have much of a problem climbing in and out or making themselves comfortable inside. Its invoice and suggested retail prices are low, too -- barely above those of the VW New Beetle. (Incidentally, the Fusion's fuel economy is roughly the same as the iconic retro compact's.) With the $3,500 rebate on the 2009 model, you are in effect getting a 20% discount. New buyers get a choice of front -- and all-wheel drive and two engines: a 2.3-liter, 160 horsepower, four-cylinder (with a five-speed manual or automatic transmission) or a 3.0-liter, 221-horsepower V6 (with a six-speed automatic). It comes in three trim levels and with a full complement of airbags as standard equipment.
Please Note: These deals only apply to the month listed above.
Dealer Secrets: When, Where to Shop
by Michael Royce | http://www.beatthecarsalesman.com
WHERE TO SHOP
The nature of your shopping experience will be determined to some extent by the type of dealership or venue you choose to visit. Here are some things to consider in deciding where to shop:
"Auto Rows" and "Auto Plazas"
Almost every municipality has an "auto row" boulevard or an "auto plaza" complex where the largest car dealerships are congregated. The advantage to shopping at these "auto rows" and "auto plazas" is that they usually have the best selections in town for both new and used cars. In addition, you can park your car and walk from dealership to dealership with a minimum of hassle. The disadvantage to these large dealerships is that they tend to be very competitive and, therefore, usually have the most aggressive salesmen.
Neighborhood Dealerships
Shopping at your local smaller neighborhood dealership will probably be a friendlier experience with the salesman giving you more of his time. However, his inventory may be limited so you may not be able to see all of the models that are available.
Automobile and Truck Shows
These shows are a great way to check out all of the new cars and trucks. You won't be able to test drive any of them, but you will be able to see all of the latest models under one roof. Call your nearest Convention Center and ask when the next Automobile Show is coming to your town.
Used Car Auto Marts
These large exclusively-used-car dealerships are now commonplace across the nation. They feature hundreds of used cars with low non-negotiable prices sold in a no-pressure atmosphere. Shopping at these Auto Marts is a great way to see a big selection of used cars and to get a feel for the current market. Be aware, however, that their non-negotiable sticker prices are sometimes slightly higher than the prices in the general used car marketplace.
Neighborhood Used Car Lots
Here you have to be careful because these small businesses sometimes come and go quickly. If you do decide to visit a neighborhood car lot, ask the salesman how long they've been at their current location. Look around the place and see if they appear to be doing business in a professional manner. And be sure to ask if they offer any warranties for their cars.
Private Parties
Shopping for a used car from a private party can be very trying and, occasionally, dangerous. You may have to travel many miles just to see one particular vehicle. And you'll probably end up test-driving the car with the seller - a total stranger - sitting at your side. If you do plan on looking at vehicles sold by private parties, try to arrange a meeting in a neutral, well-traveled place such as a shopping center or fast food parking lot. Never ever go by yourself. Never go at night. And be sure to use your intuition: if something doesn't seem quite right, then promptly leave.
Public and Police Auctions
These exciting events are growing in popularity as venues for buying Used Cars. Be aware, however, that buying at one of these auctions can be a big gamble. That's because you probably won't have a chance to thoroughly inspect the vehicle before you bid. You may not even an opportunity to test drive the vehicle. And surveys have shown that, because of the fever pitch of the bidding, selling prices are usually about the same - or even higher - than those in the general used car marketplace.
WHEN TO SHOP
Auto dealerships tend to go into "high gear" on weekends, trying to sell as many cars as possible in a two or three day period. The car salesman is put under a lot of pressure to meet the weekend quotas and achieve his bonuses. Therefore, on weekends, the salesman may lose interest in any customer that he determines is not going to buy today. By the same token, he may be annoyingly aggressive and pushy.
To avoid this craziness, try to shop on a weekday or weekday evening when the salesman is relaxed, friendly and maybe even a bit bored.
WHERE TO SHOP
The nature of your shopping experience will be determined to some extent by the type of dealership or venue you choose to visit. Here are some things to consider in deciding where to shop:
"Auto Rows" and "Auto Plazas"
Almost every municipality has an "auto row" boulevard or an "auto plaza" complex where the largest car dealerships are congregated. The advantage to shopping at these "auto rows" and "auto plazas" is that they usually have the best selections in town for both new and used cars. In addition, you can park your car and walk from dealership to dealership with a minimum of hassle. The disadvantage to these large dealerships is that they tend to be very competitive and, therefore, usually have the most aggressive salesmen.
Neighborhood Dealerships
Shopping at your local smaller neighborhood dealership will probably be a friendlier experience with the salesman giving you more of his time. However, his inventory may be limited so you may not be able to see all of the models that are available.
Automobile and Truck Shows
These shows are a great way to check out all of the new cars and trucks. You won't be able to test drive any of them, but you will be able to see all of the latest models under one roof. Call your nearest Convention Center and ask when the next Automobile Show is coming to your town.
Used Car Auto Marts
These large exclusively-used-car dealerships are now commonplace across the nation. They feature hundreds of used cars with low non-negotiable prices sold in a no-pressure atmosphere. Shopping at these Auto Marts is a great way to see a big selection of used cars and to get a feel for the current market. Be aware, however, that their non-negotiable sticker prices are sometimes slightly higher than the prices in the general used car marketplace.
Neighborhood Used Car Lots
Here you have to be careful because these small businesses sometimes come and go quickly. If you do decide to visit a neighborhood car lot, ask the salesman how long they've been at their current location. Look around the place and see if they appear to be doing business in a professional manner. And be sure to ask if they offer any warranties for their cars.
Private Parties
Shopping for a used car from a private party can be very trying and, occasionally, dangerous. You may have to travel many miles just to see one particular vehicle. And you'll probably end up test-driving the car with the seller - a total stranger - sitting at your side. If you do plan on looking at vehicles sold by private parties, try to arrange a meeting in a neutral, well-traveled place such as a shopping center or fast food parking lot. Never ever go by yourself. Never go at night. And be sure to use your intuition: if something doesn't seem quite right, then promptly leave.
Public and Police Auctions
These exciting events are growing in popularity as venues for buying Used Cars. Be aware, however, that buying at one of these auctions can be a big gamble. That's because you probably won't have a chance to thoroughly inspect the vehicle before you bid. You may not even an opportunity to test drive the vehicle. And surveys have shown that, because of the fever pitch of the bidding, selling prices are usually about the same - or even higher - than those in the general used car marketplace.
WHEN TO SHOP
Auto dealerships tend to go into "high gear" on weekends, trying to sell as many cars as possible in a two or three day period. The car salesman is put under a lot of pressure to meet the weekend quotas and achieve his bonuses. Therefore, on weekends, the salesman may lose interest in any customer that he determines is not going to buy today. By the same token, he may be annoyingly aggressive and pushy.
To avoid this craziness, try to shop on a weekday or weekday evening when the salesman is relaxed, friendly and maybe even a bit bored.
Negotiating Auto Financing: Auto Dealer Secrets Revealed
by Michael Royce | www.beatthecarsalesman.com
Sales data shown is of top 20 selling cars and trucks as compiled by Autodata Corporation.
Congratulations. You've successfully negotiated the purchase price of your new or used car or truck. You've made a great deal.
Next you're ushered into the dealership's "Business Office" - also known as the "F&I Office" for "Finance and Insurance". You're introduced to the Business Manager, a pleasant well-groomed woman (or man) who congratulates you on your purchase. She (he), reassures you that you made a wise decision and that the tough part is over so now you can relax. You sit and breathe a welcome sigh of relief.
As you go through the formalities of signing the various forms and agreements, she casually explains to you your financing terms, your interest rate and other details. Along the way, she offers you several "extras" that will add "mere pennies a day" to your monthly payments. Among these items might be an Extended Service Warranty, Paint and Fabric Protection, Rustproofing, Undercoating, Alarm System, Window Tinting, and maybe even Life, Health, or Disability Insurance.
You're relaxed. The negotiating is over. And these "extras" sound really worthwhile. Besides, you like this Business Manager. She's or he's, so darn nice and sincere. So you agree to the interest rate and financing terms. You purchase the Extended Service Warranty. You even purchase the Paint and Fabric Protection.
BAM! You just put a small fortune in her purse. Why? Because the biggest secret that the dealership doesn't want you to know is this:
The "Business Manager" is, in reality, a salesperson working on commission.
Most of what the Business Manager offers you is negotiable.
Of course, you probably didn't know that. Most car-buyers don't. And certainly no one at the dealership is going to tell you.
The plain fact is: Car dealerships often make more profit from the financing of the vehicle and the sale of "extras" sold in the Business Office than from the actual sale of the vehicle itself.
So what to do? No worries, my friend. Here are some tips for dealing effectively with the car dealership's "Business Manager":
1. Don't let your guard down. Just because the Business Manager may seem friendlier and nicer than the car salesman, it doesn't mean the deal is over once you enter the Business Office. It isn't. The deal doesn't conclude until you drive the vehicle off the dealership's lot. So despite how friendly the Business Manager may seem, remember that she's there to make as much money as possible for herself and the dealership.
2. Arrange your financing before you go to the dealership. Since the Business Manager works on commission, she may try to trap you in a higher-than-necessary interest rate so she can maximize her commission. Avoid the dealership games by arranging your financing before you set foot in the dealership to buy. Apply for an auto loan at your bank or credit union. You can also apply for an auto loan online. Then compare all of the loan offers you've received and choose the best one. Once at the dealership, compare your best offer with the dealership's offer and decide which is the best deal for you.
3. Try to negotiate the interest rate. If you were unable to qualify for financing from any bank, credit union or online financier, then you'll probably be stuck with dealership financing. And your auto loan will probably have a relatively high interest rate since you are considered a "credit risk." Nonetheless, if you feel that the interest rate that the Business Manager offers you is unreasonably high, tell her so and ask her to lower it.
4. Think twice about the "extras." Each "extra" you purchase means another commission to the Business Manager. But do you really need these "extras"? Probably not. For example, you'll certainly be offered an Extended Service Warranty. All new cars and trucks come with comprehensive warranties so you don't need to buy another one. As for Paint Protection, you can apply it yourself by buying any inexpensive "over-the-counter" polymer sealant car wax. You can apply Fabric Protection yourself by buying a can of Scotchguard. You may be able to purchase Window Tinting, Alarm Systems, Pinstriping and other after-market items cheaper on your own. Rustproofing is usually applied automatically in the factory so you certainly don't need to pay twice for it. (Check your vehicle's Factory Warranty to see if it includes a Rust Perforation Warranty. Most do.) And by all means, decline any health or life insurance that you may be offered by the dealership.
5. Go to the experts for answers. Don't count on the dealership to give you straight answers about financing. Remember, they may say anything to get you to finance your vehicle with them on their terms. So for the real facts about monthly payments, interest rates and other important financing details, ask your bank or credit union for the truth. They'll be happy to take the time to explain it all to you in an easy-to-understand no-pressure atmosphere.
6. Take the time to learn. Be sure to do all of your research and get the necessary facts before you go to the dealership to buy. Remember that they want you to be hurried and confused. So don't fall for that trap. Take the time to do your research. It'll pay off big time in the long run.
Sales data shown is of top 20 selling cars and trucks as compiled by Autodata Corporation.
Congratulations. You've successfully negotiated the purchase price of your new or used car or truck. You've made a great deal.
Next you're ushered into the dealership's "Business Office" - also known as the "F&I Office" for "Finance and Insurance". You're introduced to the Business Manager, a pleasant well-groomed woman (or man) who congratulates you on your purchase. She (he), reassures you that you made a wise decision and that the tough part is over so now you can relax. You sit and breathe a welcome sigh of relief.
As you go through the formalities of signing the various forms and agreements, she casually explains to you your financing terms, your interest rate and other details. Along the way, she offers you several "extras" that will add "mere pennies a day" to your monthly payments. Among these items might be an Extended Service Warranty, Paint and Fabric Protection, Rustproofing, Undercoating, Alarm System, Window Tinting, and maybe even Life, Health, or Disability Insurance.
You're relaxed. The negotiating is over. And these "extras" sound really worthwhile. Besides, you like this Business Manager. She's or he's, so darn nice and sincere. So you agree to the interest rate and financing terms. You purchase the Extended Service Warranty. You even purchase the Paint and Fabric Protection.
BAM! You just put a small fortune in her purse. Why? Because the biggest secret that the dealership doesn't want you to know is this:
The "Business Manager" is, in reality, a salesperson working on commission.
Most of what the Business Manager offers you is negotiable.
Of course, you probably didn't know that. Most car-buyers don't. And certainly no one at the dealership is going to tell you.
The plain fact is: Car dealerships often make more profit from the financing of the vehicle and the sale of "extras" sold in the Business Office than from the actual sale of the vehicle itself.
So what to do? No worries, my friend. Here are some tips for dealing effectively with the car dealership's "Business Manager":
1. Don't let your guard down. Just because the Business Manager may seem friendlier and nicer than the car salesman, it doesn't mean the deal is over once you enter the Business Office. It isn't. The deal doesn't conclude until you drive the vehicle off the dealership's lot. So despite how friendly the Business Manager may seem, remember that she's there to make as much money as possible for herself and the dealership.
2. Arrange your financing before you go to the dealership. Since the Business Manager works on commission, she may try to trap you in a higher-than-necessary interest rate so she can maximize her commission. Avoid the dealership games by arranging your financing before you set foot in the dealership to buy. Apply for an auto loan at your bank or credit union. You can also apply for an auto loan online. Then compare all of the loan offers you've received and choose the best one. Once at the dealership, compare your best offer with the dealership's offer and decide which is the best deal for you.
3. Try to negotiate the interest rate. If you were unable to qualify for financing from any bank, credit union or online financier, then you'll probably be stuck with dealership financing. And your auto loan will probably have a relatively high interest rate since you are considered a "credit risk." Nonetheless, if you feel that the interest rate that the Business Manager offers you is unreasonably high, tell her so and ask her to lower it.
4. Think twice about the "extras." Each "extra" you purchase means another commission to the Business Manager. But do you really need these "extras"? Probably not. For example, you'll certainly be offered an Extended Service Warranty. All new cars and trucks come with comprehensive warranties so you don't need to buy another one. As for Paint Protection, you can apply it yourself by buying any inexpensive "over-the-counter" polymer sealant car wax. You can apply Fabric Protection yourself by buying a can of Scotchguard. You may be able to purchase Window Tinting, Alarm Systems, Pinstriping and other after-market items cheaper on your own. Rustproofing is usually applied automatically in the factory so you certainly don't need to pay twice for it. (Check your vehicle's Factory Warranty to see if it includes a Rust Perforation Warranty. Most do.) And by all means, decline any health or life insurance that you may be offered by the dealership.
5. Go to the experts for answers. Don't count on the dealership to give you straight answers about financing. Remember, they may say anything to get you to finance your vehicle with them on their terms. So for the real facts about monthly payments, interest rates and other important financing details, ask your bank or credit union for the truth. They'll be happy to take the time to explain it all to you in an easy-to-understand no-pressure atmosphere.
6. Take the time to learn. Be sure to do all of your research and get the necessary facts before you go to the dealership to buy. Remember that they want you to be hurried and confused. So don't fall for that trap. Take the time to do your research. It'll pay off big time in the long run.
How to Buy A New Car Without Negotiating
by Michael Royce | http://www.beatthecarsalesman.com
Posted: 03 April 2009
Sales data shown is of top 20 selling cars and trucks as compiled by Autodata Corporation.
There are two good ways to buy your new car or truck at a reasonable low price and avoid all of the negotiating games and hassles:
1. Buy through the Internet.
Buying your new or used car or truck through the Internet is the easiest and most hassle-free way to make the purchase.
All you have to do is choose the vehicle brand and model you wish to purchase as well as provide some basic contact information such as your name and e-mail address. In return, you'll receive - via e-mail - low bottom-line selling prices from dealerships in your area for the exact vehicle you want to buy. Compare the various selling prices and find the lowest one. Then, simply go direct to that dealership's Internet Department, sign the papers and drive your new car home - no negotiating, no hassles.
To begin the process, get your free price quotes from AOL Autos. It only takes a few minutes. This service is totally free and you are under no obligation or pressure to buy.
Within 24 hours, you'll receive your bottom-line selling prices from dealerships in your area. Once you've compared the various prices and found the lowest one, you then have four good options:
• You can go to the dealership that gave you the lowest price, sign the papers and drive your new car home -- no hassles, no negotiating.
• You can try to negotiate the lowest price with the dealership in order to get the price even lower. There's nothing that says you can't.
• You can shop the lowest price around to other dealerships to see if any of them are willing to beat it.
• You can do nothing. If you feel unsure or uncertain, then set it aside for a while. You are not obligated to buy anything you don't want.
By getting these low bottom-line selling prices via the Internet, you're avoiding the car salesman's entire negotiating game altogether. And you're buying your car at about the same price you would expect after lengthy negotiations. It's certainly the fastest and easiest way to beat the car salesman.
2. Buy through the dealership's Fleet Department.
Almost every dealership has a division called the "Fleet Department." It usually consists of only a handful of salespeople who specialize in selling fleets of cars --large orders of several vehicles direct to businesses. This department is authorized by the dealership to sell their cars at bottom-line non-negotiable prices. The prices they offer are about the same as you would expect from an online price quote or after lengthy negotiations.
A secret of the car business is that many dealerships' Fleet Departments also sell direct to the public. By the rules of the game, however, they can't advertise to the public since they don't want to compete with the dealership's retail sales team. So to buy from the Fleet Department, you have to specifically ask.
To buy your vehicle direct from the dealership's Fleet Department, simply call the dealership and ask to speak with the Fleet Manager. When you get him on the line, explain to him that you're ready to buy a car and you'd like to buy it from him. If he asks you what business you are associated with, tell him where you work. He'll probably be happy to set up an appointment with you.
When you arrive at the dealership, the Fleet Manager will show you the vehicle, allow you to test drive it, and then bring you to the office to discuss price. With absolutely no negotiations, he'll offer you a reasonable bottom-line non-negotiable selling price for the vehicle.
If the price he gives you falls within the pre-set limits of your buying goal and you're satisfied with the deal, then you can buy the car. No pressure, no games, no hassles. If for some reason, you don't want to buy the vehicle, you are under no obligation. Simply thank the salesman for his time and leave on good terms. Then, if you'd like, you can visit (or call) the Fleet Departments of other dealerships to compare prices. The selling prices offered by the various Fleet Departments can vary depending upon their inventories.
Posted: 03 April 2009
Sales data shown is of top 20 selling cars and trucks as compiled by Autodata Corporation.
There are two good ways to buy your new car or truck at a reasonable low price and avoid all of the negotiating games and hassles:
1. Buy through the Internet.
Buying your new or used car or truck through the Internet is the easiest and most hassle-free way to make the purchase.
All you have to do is choose the vehicle brand and model you wish to purchase as well as provide some basic contact information such as your name and e-mail address. In return, you'll receive - via e-mail - low bottom-line selling prices from dealerships in your area for the exact vehicle you want to buy. Compare the various selling prices and find the lowest one. Then, simply go direct to that dealership's Internet Department, sign the papers and drive your new car home - no negotiating, no hassles.
To begin the process, get your free price quotes from AOL Autos. It only takes a few minutes. This service is totally free and you are under no obligation or pressure to buy.
Within 24 hours, you'll receive your bottom-line selling prices from dealerships in your area. Once you've compared the various prices and found the lowest one, you then have four good options:
• You can go to the dealership that gave you the lowest price, sign the papers and drive your new car home -- no hassles, no negotiating.
• You can try to negotiate the lowest price with the dealership in order to get the price even lower. There's nothing that says you can't.
• You can shop the lowest price around to other dealerships to see if any of them are willing to beat it.
• You can do nothing. If you feel unsure or uncertain, then set it aside for a while. You are not obligated to buy anything you don't want.
By getting these low bottom-line selling prices via the Internet, you're avoiding the car salesman's entire negotiating game altogether. And you're buying your car at about the same price you would expect after lengthy negotiations. It's certainly the fastest and easiest way to beat the car salesman.
2. Buy through the dealership's Fleet Department.
Almost every dealership has a division called the "Fleet Department." It usually consists of only a handful of salespeople who specialize in selling fleets of cars --large orders of several vehicles direct to businesses. This department is authorized by the dealership to sell their cars at bottom-line non-negotiable prices. The prices they offer are about the same as you would expect from an online price quote or after lengthy negotiations.
A secret of the car business is that many dealerships' Fleet Departments also sell direct to the public. By the rules of the game, however, they can't advertise to the public since they don't want to compete with the dealership's retail sales team. So to buy from the Fleet Department, you have to specifically ask.
To buy your vehicle direct from the dealership's Fleet Department, simply call the dealership and ask to speak with the Fleet Manager. When you get him on the line, explain to him that you're ready to buy a car and you'd like to buy it from him. If he asks you what business you are associated with, tell him where you work. He'll probably be happy to set up an appointment with you.
When you arrive at the dealership, the Fleet Manager will show you the vehicle, allow you to test drive it, and then bring you to the office to discuss price. With absolutely no negotiations, he'll offer you a reasonable bottom-line non-negotiable selling price for the vehicle.
If the price he gives you falls within the pre-set limits of your buying goal and you're satisfied with the deal, then you can buy the car. No pressure, no games, no hassles. If for some reason, you don't want to buy the vehicle, you are under no obligation. Simply thank the salesman for his time and leave on good terms. Then, if you'd like, you can visit (or call) the Fleet Departments of other dealerships to compare prices. The selling prices offered by the various Fleet Departments can vary depending upon their inventories.
Friday, April 3, 2009
2010 Chevrolet Camero SS vs, 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T vs, 2010 Ford Mustang GT
The Comparo We've Waited 35 Years to Write. And The Feud We've Waited 35 Years to Watch.
By Arthur St. Antoine
Photography by Brian Vance
Thirty-five years ago, the word "Watergate" was being re-Webstered from meaning "a snazzy apartment building in Washington, D.C." to "a coverup investigation involving the White House, two reporters who don't look anything like Robert Redford and Dustin Hoffman, and a guy named 'Deep Throat.'" The most popular show on TV was about a grump named Archie whose tattered easy chair would go on to occupy a place in the Smithsonian. Half of the current staff of Motor Trend hadn't even been born yet (yes, Angus, we're getting old). That year, 1974, would also mark the final moment for decades in which America's streets would be prowled by all three current-gen versions of the most iconic-ever ponycars: the Chevy Camaro, the Dodge Challenger, and the Ford Mustang.
Frankly, we thought we'd never see the tire smoke from the ponycar wars again.
Defying the oddsmakers, though, America's three trick ponies are back. And they're back big. Those days of yore are indeed long-gone -- but only because the new incarnations of the Camaro, Challenger, and Mustang are so far evolved from their famed predecessors they're recognizable almost by name only. Sure, the old cars looked cool and made lots of noise and got the girls, and some could even lay down a righteous longitudinal blast when the road arrowed straight. But none could match these current machines for blistering speed, cornering ability, braking power, driveability, reliability, and comfort. I mean, when I was 16, we didn't have fancy computers to make our cars run like winged chariots, and we didn't have in-car iPod adaptors (unless you count the Tijuana Brass on eight-track), and we sure didn't have...never mind. You whippersnappers today don't know how good you've got it.
What remains utterly unchanged, however, is a degree of nameplate loyalty and fan mania the likes of which might be matched by the current March Madness B-ball tourney. Or maybe not. After all, Camaro versus Mustang versus Challenger is deeply ingrained into the American psyche, the four-wheeled equivalent of the Hatfields versus the McCoys versus...uh, the HatCoys. Doesn't really matter which car we deem the best or what the numbers say -- the feuding factions will stand behind their favorites like a third-grader defending his mom against the schoolyard rabble. Might even be a few bloody noses thrown in if the hostilities escalate to the level of, "Yeah? Well, your Challenger's so fat..."
Hey, but we love a good debate (or at least starting one). So...we proudly present our exclusive, first-ever, side-by-side-by-side comparison of the new Chevrolet Camaro SS, the Dodge Challenger R/T, and the Ford Mustang GT. All the numbers, all our driving impressions...just one winner.
Let the flame-throwing begin...
Three of a Kind
All three ponies share similar basic blueprints. The foundation: aggressive two-door bodywork, at least a semblance of a back seat and a trunk, brawny V-8 mounted up front and driving the rear wheels through an available manual shifter, suspension biased toward responsiveness over cushiness, price tag hovering somewhere in the affordasphere. All three have also obviously been injected, Jurassic Park-like, with DNA from their long-deceased ancestors.
Of the three, the Ford Mustang, of course, has been with us all along. True, soon after its 1960s heyday Dearborn's ponycar morphed into the heinous "Mustang II" -- an anemic lump of Iacocca-fueled cynicism that looked good only when Farah Fawcett-Majors was driving it and your eyes were closed -- but eventually Ford came to its senses and the Mustang was born again proud. The current, 2010 version boasts newly freshened sheetmetal, a vastly upgraded cockpit, and a SOHC, 4.6L V-8 making 315 hp and throaty exhaust sounds worthy of "Bullitt."
Last year, Dodge bravely resurrected the long-gone Challenger (missing since '74) with an all-new car that masterfully recalls the bandit-eyed original made famous by Kowalski's high-speed, existentialist dash in the 1971 movie "Vanishing Point." Though first available only in mega-output SRT8 form, for 2009 the Challenger gains a new R/T edition, powered by a 376-hp, 5.7L Hemi V-8 and available with a six-speed manual -- including retro-licious pistol-grip shifter (A V-6-powered SE coupe also joins the 2009 stable).
The newest entry, missing since 2002 and once feared RIP forever, is Chevy's Camaro. The structure, including an independent rear suspension, owes its roots to GM's Zeta global platform (i.e., the Australian Commodore); the ravishing bodywork flows from the keen hand of South Korea-born chief designer Sang Yup Lee. Though available in base form with a superb, 3.6L direct-injection six making 304 hp, the Camaro in topline SS trim brandishes a 6.2L V-8 (GM's LS3 from the 2008 Vette) making a strapping 426 hp and mated to a six-speed manual shifter. (Opt for the six-speed auto, and the SS engine changes to the L99 6.2L V-8, rated at 400 hp and outfitted with Active Fuel Management capable of deactivating four cylinders when not needed.) Tires are 20-in. Pirelli PZero summer meats standard (if you're foolish enough to trade handling moves for curb presence, Chevy dealers also offer a 21-in. wheel/tire combo). Also standard: four huge four-piston Brembo brakes. Put simply, GM has left nothing on the table with the release of its reincarnated pony.
Mountain-Do
We gathered all three players together in the lightly traveled, serpentine hill country east of San Diego. Armed with a full battery of track numbers, courtesy of an instrumented test conducted just three hours earlier in Detroit and beamed to us via BlackBerry and iPhone by technical director Frank Markus, our comparo team -- editor-in-chief Angus MacKenzie, senior editor Ed Loh, and yours truly -- strapped in, kicked the spurs into our pony trio, and galloped into the twisties. Immediately, the subjective impressions -- good and bad -- began flowing into our neural data loggers. Some comments from the logbooks:
Ford Mustang GT with Track Pack
Angus MacKenzie: The best steering in an American car. Ever. Direct, linear, good feel. Astounding turn-in response -- helped in no small way by the PZero tires. Superb pedal placement -- brake and clutch and gas pedals nicely aligned; heel-and-toe downshifts a cinch. Five-speed manual lighter, crisper shift than Tremec 6060 in the other two. Downside is there's a giant hole between fourth and and fifth. V-8 is smooth, revs nicely, pulls hard. Performance helped by weight advantage over other two; helps this 315-hp car punch above its weight.
Mustang feels very connected to the road -- telegraphs what's going on where the rubber meets the road -- at both ends. Handles better than any car with a live rear axle has a right to, though if the road surface is gnarly, you'll be chasing the rear end all the time, and therefore will be ultimately slower point to point than the Camaro. This is more like a sports car than a ponycar, and on a smooth road or track, you feel you can do almost anything in it.
Ed Loh: The biggest surprise here. I thought the Camaro would leave the Mustang in a ditch by the side of the road, but I was genuinely surprised at how capable the Mustang is. Its long and meaty third gear sends the car roaring up Sunrise Highway. Similar to the Camaro, though the downhill is where the Mustang begins to separate itself. Sharper more communicative steering (a result of that Track Pack?) gives the Mustang more confidence through corners. I felt more front-end grip and less lateral sway from the suspension -- especially under braking when approaching a corner.
Sure, the live axle might send the Ford shivering if the pavement were rougher, but I think it's important to note that we had no problems with this supposedly antiquated suspension setup. And, sure, I'd love to see how a non-Track-Pack-equipped version would handle up and down those roads. But as a guy who has long slagged the live axle, color me impressed.
Indeed, the Mustang GT left all of us astounded at what magic Ford's engineers have achieved with this seemingly antiquated architecture. "That GT turns in like a race car," was our communal opinion after our mountain romps. Only when the road surface deteriorates does the Mustang GT begin to lose its poise. But, man, the incredible bite of the front end is the stuff test drivers write poetry about.
Astonishing.
Dodge Challenger R/T
Angus MacKenzie: Big steering wheel, like helming a yacht, with Benz DNA buried deep, as you can feel the slight pause as you swing through on-center. R/T suspension tune way softer, less controlled than SRT8's. More body movement, squirms around on the springs and bushings. Have to be deliberate with the car through the twisties -- brake, then turn, then get on the gas. Once it takes a set, though, it's quite predictable. Just gets flustered if you want to change direction in a hurry. Goodyear Eagle RS-A tires in nowhere near the same league as the Pirellis. You feel the shoulders juddering at the limit.
Default handling mode is understeer, amplified by lower-geared steering and big wheel. Brake feel the worst of the three. Terrific cruise car, though; just lopes along the freeways. Comfortable seats, ride. The 5.7 Hemi likes to rev. It's a nice engine and has well-defined V-8 sound in the cabin. Pedal placement is poor -- brake pedal high and widely spaced relative to gas pedal; makes heel-and-toe downshifts more clumsy.
Ed Loh: "This thing feels bigger by half" is the first thing I said after getting into the Challenger from the Mustang. Indeed, it's even about 25 percent larger than the Camaro, both in interior space (the Dodge's rear seat is the only one I'd want to be in on a trip longer than around the block) and the way it feels on the road. Drive the Challenger 20 yards on Sunrise Highway, and it becomes clear it doesn't stand a chance with the other two on the twisties. Even the much more expensive SRT8 would have trouble hanging with this crowd. With the R/T the power is fine, it's just the extra weight that translates to slow and deliberate handling. Asking it to carve up and down mountain roads is like asking a lineman to run double-out routes. It will do it, but it won't be pretty.
On my drives up and down Sunrise, the Challenger was the only car that substantially engaged stability control. Arrived at our turnaround spot with the brakes simply stinking. Simply too much mass to hustle around. For everything else -- highway blasts, cruising about town, roasting tires in parking lots -- the big orange Dodge is every bit the Mustang and Camaro's equal. I think it does so with more style, too; and no questions about the build quality (unlike with the Ford). I love that the modern Dodge Challenger's cultural touchstone is "Vanishing Point" -- an obscure movie from the era of the old car. I'm less enthusiastic that with the new Camaro everyone references a marketing campaign disguised as a summer blockbuster...
In a nutshell, the Challenger R/T is just too big and soft to hang with Mustang and Camaro when the road gets kinky; it's a Clydesdale compared with the two Thoroughbreds. The scales bear this out: The Challenger R/T presses down on the earth with 4154 lb, 295 more than the Camaro SS and a massive 582 more than the Mustang GT. Uncle Isaac Newton decrees there's simply no way this pony can gavotte like its rivals. On the other hand, Uncle Isaac just doesn't grasp the more subtle appeal of man-size cabin quarters and a classic bandit grille...
Your Numbers Are Up
Tell war stories about the prowess of their long-departed ancestors to any one of these modern ponies, and they'll start rolling their eyes. "Grandpa? Huge biceps, skinny legs. More muscles than brains. Why, he couldn't even negotiate a tight corner without squealing at the top of his lungs. Smoked too much, too."
Simply, every member of this trio leaves its circa-1970s counterpart in the virtual dust. As in, these babies are fast. Though saddled with the most mass and only mid-pack power, the Challenger R/T nonetheless rips to 60 mph in just 5.1 seconds and knocks-down the quarter in 13.6 seconds at 104.9 mph. The Hemi engine is a beauty, gushing with torque (410 lb-ft) and unfailingly smooth from idle to redline. The six-speed manual carves through its gates effortlessly, and, says MacKenzie, "The pistol-grip shifter works surprisingly well." Loh concurs: "Nice seats and pistol-grip shifter, but a decidedly sedanlike seating position. High window sill, wide and low windshield, and dark interior give the Challenger a real musclecar feel."
The Mustang GT carries the least-impressive on-paper physique -- just 4.6L making 315hp -- but like a bantamweight it packs a helluva punch. Nearly 600 lb lighter than the Dodge, Ford's pony rockets to 60 mph in a mere 4.9 sec and holds that edge through the quarter, nipping the lights in 13.5 sec at trap speed of 104.2 mph. Though the GT wears only a five-speed manual, the lack of a sixth cog doesn't hinder its majestic stride. The engine is sizzling, too, happy to whirl away near its redline while making music worthy of a hit single. Can't drive a Mustang GT to hear for yourself? Go play the chase scene from "Bullitt." The 2010 GT performs with the same electrifying movie-star soundtrack.
Wielding 50 hp more than its next-closest rival and sporting a standard six-speed manual, the Camaro SS theoretically holds all the performance cards. And it isn't bluffing. Despite the 3859 lb borne of the Camaro's use of a preexisting structure (and the inherent compromises thereof), 0 to 60 mph takes a mere 4.7 sec; the quarter mile just 13 sec flat at 111.0 mph. When equipped with the manual, the SS also includes standard launch control; the driver simply mashes the throttle, waits for revs to stabilize around 4000 rpm, and then dumps the clutch. The on-board HAL 9000 does all the fancy footwork. The system works well enough, but it's no match for an experienced human right foot. (Note the human-versus-computer-generated numbers in the specifications chart.) All our testers agreed that the Mustang GT sounds more intoxicating inside the cockpit (thanks to a carefully engineered sound pipe delivering just the best notes to the cabin), but from the outside it's a different story. The Camaro SS won "Best Tenor" honors from all who heard it rumble past. And, of course, it's got the chops to back up that "Don't Tread on Me" audio. So be forewarned. Don't tread on it.
The lightweight, Track Pack-enhanced Mustang GT posts the defining stats on the handling tests. Maximum grip is a neck-wrenching 0.95 g, and the GT circled our figure eight in just 25.5 sec (at a 0.70g average). The Camaro SS was nearly there, churning out a max lat of 0.90 g and running the ocho cones in 25.8 sec (at 0.80 average g). Far behind lagged the broad-shouldered Challenger R/T, good for just 0.82g max and needing 27.5 sec (at 0.63 average g) to negotiate the figure eight.
Braking performance follows a similar pattern. Though wearing only conventional binders, the lower-mass Mustang GT hammers to a stop from 60 in just 108 ft. Blessed with those four big Brembos, the Camaro SS, though heavier, notches the win, stopping in just 105 ft. Then far behind arrives the Challenger R/T, needing a full 135 ft to reign in its forward motion. Uncle Isaac more or less predicted the outcome of this one.
How Do I Look?
"Pure sex," is Loh's description of the Camaro's bod. "Deep draw of the flanks makes for some lovely, lurid, almost cartoony proportions. This is the Jessica Rabbit of musclecars." Avers MacKenzie: "Exterior styling is dramatic, not retro. Front end a little too plasticky. Side profile is awesome -- aggressive hips, slammed roofline, perfect ride height. Rear lights a little sad-eyed; reverse lights look like afterthoughts." Inside, the Camaro blends 1969 cues with modern forms. "Steering-wheel rim profile odd," says MacKenzie. "Interior is dark, A-pillars thick. But you sit in the car, not on it as in the Challenger. Interior styling is cool -- order the four-pack of gauges on the console; it looks a bit Spartan without them." All of us noted the laughable, submarine-hatch trunk opening, an obvious example of exterior style holding sway over all else. But to MacKenzie's thinking, "If a trunk is important to you, buy a sedan." Or, one might add, a Challenger.
On exterior design the Mustang drew mixed views. "Surfacing is very modern," says Mackenzie. "Unlike Challenger, which has a pure retro stance, with wheels inside the body, the Mustang sheetmetal is teased out over the tires. But it looks like just another Mustang. No one will notice it. Ford has a real challenge figuring out what to do with the next one." Loh was considerably more upbeat about the cockpit. "From the aluminum Mustang emblem on the steering wheel to the soft-touch dash to the bright and cleanly styled instruments -- it's the biggest leap from the old car and one of the major reasons I'd actually considering owning one. Only downside: not enough cubbies for the articles in my manpurse." The Mustang also easily trumps the Camaro for rear-seat room and trunk space, though as Loh adds, "Who buys one of these for the back seat?"
Very troubling, though, is the Mustang's shoddy build quality. The driver-side window gapped open above 60 mph or in any high-g corner, allowing a tornado of wind and noise to intrude. If this turns out to be a common Mustang flaw -- we haven't noticed it on previous drives -- it'd be a complete deal-breaker (obviously, we plan to sample more GT test cars for evidence-gathering). We might also be more willing to overlook what might be a single-car defect if not for the Mustang's ill-fitting trunklid. When closed, you could easily slide a half-dollar coin through the undulating gap on the deck, and probably a Royale with Cheese through the cavernous maw near the license plate. This is shameful execution, as if the Mustang GT had been engineered and built not by Ford but by Trabant. (In fairness, Ford spokespersons point out that our test car was a preproduction unit and maintain that all production 2010 Mustangs are fully up to quality standards.)
The Challenger may not top the performance charts, and its interior -- though nicely finished -- is the most familiar of the three (if you've seen a Chrysler 300, you've seen this cabin). But the Dodge is almost unbeatable for sheer Star Power. "Outside, the details are perfect," says Loh. "Chrome Challenger script (that now matches the gas cap), R/T racing stripes, polished aluminum drag wheels. It really does look the business." MacKenzie wholeheartedly agrees: "Retro-style stance, proportions, surfacing, detailing are superb. A loving homage to the past. Optional retro-style wheels and R/T stripes are perfect, and worth every last cent over the base R/T package. Roomiest car of the lot, with a useable back seat and big trunk." Sure, the opening-night Camaro drew plenty of thumbs-up and frantic grabs for cell-phone cameras, but almost everybody loves the Challenger, too. At one of our photo stops, a group of young guys carefully perused each of our players. "Definitely this one," said one grinning critic, pointing to the big orange Dodge. Of the trio, it's the Challenger that most channels yesteryear; Dodge has perfectly balanced past and present.
Which is to say, on the subjective subject of styling, each of these ponies scores well. Pick your favorite flavor and enjoy.
Finish Lines
Going into this test, and knowing the basic stats, we had an inkling how it might turn out. (All three cars, by the way, eke out impressive and nearly identical fuel-economy results -- though the Mustang's lack of a six-speed means it finishes last on EPA.) Never did we guess, though, how close the overall finish would turn out to be.
In third place, the Dodge Challenger R/T. Third of three, but hardly last. As MacKenzie well sums up: "Hugely endearing personality. Even though the Challenger starts to fall apart dynamically above 7/10ths you can't help but like the big guy. It's sorta like a Heritage Soft-Tail Harley; a carefully crafted and easy to own reminder of a simpler, sunnier America." Astutely executed, fast, and sit-back comfortable, the Challenger is the pony you'd ride for a 50-state tour. On the downside, the orange bruiser simply can't carve with the precision of its rivals, and though it starts with a mid-pack base sticker ($30,945), adding the good stuff (six-speed manual, 3.92 rear axle, limited-slip diff, 20-in. wheels and tires, etc.) pushed the price of our tester to a trio-topping $38,270.
Finishing in second place . . . the Ford Mustang GT. Mind you, this was a photo-finish. The Mustang with Track Pack blew us all away with its sublime steering, incredible front-end grip, stylish cockpit, and beauteous V-8. As Loh notes, "That's what most impressed me: Ford's two competitors had the advantage of sampling 45 years of Mustang DNA, yet they still couldn't pull out a runaway win." The Mustang scores well on value, too: base price for the GT is $28,845, and with Premium package, Track Pack, security package, and the comfort group, our test car totaled $34,330. The Ford might even have scored an upset, except it cannot match the Camaro's unfailing poise, its breathtaking power, or its styling drama. Those quality issues sure didn't help, either.
And so . . . our winner, the Prime Pony of the 21st Century is . . . the 2010 Chevrolet Camaro SS. Considering all the ways GM could easily have got this car wrong, it's nothing short of a triumph how unquestionably the company got it right. The Camaro might trail the Mustang in handling sharpness, and there's no doubt it finishes last for cabin and trunk volume, but, well, you don't pick your pony for the size of its saddlebags. Graced with massive power, excellent efficiency, unfailing refinement, and show-stopping looks, the Camaro SS nails every essential for its segment. What's more, it's priced to steal. Base sticker for the 1SS manual: just $30,995. With the Boston Acoustics audio package, our cloth-seat tester climbed only to $31,490. Go nuts with the options pencil -- adding leather, power sunroof, ground effects, six-speed auto, and more stuff you really don't need -- and you can nudge the SS just over $40K.
So there you have it: Chevrolet claims the ponycar title, circa 2009. Now, go to it, Hatfields, McCoys, and HatCoys. We've been waiting 35 years to witness once again perhaps the all-time greatest feud in Autoland. Where's my cigar? Ah, there's the opening bell!
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Transform Your Thunderbird With Custom Designs
New Front Fascia gives the Thunderbird a striking facelift. Made of elastomer urethane, it retains the trademark factory grille along with its bumper-impact cushion and air intake. Halogen running-fog lights complete a dramatic showcar transformation. 
Roadster-style Tonneau Cover features headrest nacelles with leather-grained caps and 'waterfall' center. Made of light-weight, durable ABS, it installs easily in minutes. This exciting tonneau recalls the Thunderbird Sports Roadster of the sixties. 
Sport Hood Scoop complements the redesigned front fascia by emphasizing it's aggressive contours. Easily added to the stock Thunderbird hood, this simple yet racy item adds an aggressive note to the otherwise tame factory hood scoop. 
Interior Carbon-Fiber Trim Package is a custom designed 13-piece set that includes trim for the center console, gearshift, door armrests, and A/C vents. Made of real carbon fiber and available in several handsome, complementary colors.The California Custom's totally redesigned appearance recalls the custom cars California is famous for, and echoes elements of the classic Thunderbirds of the 50's and 60's.
Features include an exclusive tonneau cover with faired-in headrest nacelles and a new front fascia with recessed grille that is reminiscent of the original Thunderbird. An aggressive hood scoop replaces the otherwise tame factory scoop and complements the new fascia. A real carbon-fiber trim package provides a high-tech look for the interior.
Performance Suspension Package features Koni shocks and Eibach springs, lowering the car about one inch. Designed for this specially-tuned car, the new suspension kit enhances cornering and appearance, while retaining a comfortable ride. 
Exclusive Tire & Wheel Package features special 20" wheels by Giovanna with round openings that echo Thunderbird's hardtop porthole. High-performance Toyo 245-35/20 tires produce an exciting custom look, without sacrificing roadability. 
Fender Skirts & Ground Effects Kit features aerodynamic rocker panel 'blades' which begin at the new front fascia and continue to the rear. The fender skirts create a sleek 50's look and incorporate functional air intakes for rear brake cooling. 
Borla Stainless Steel Performance Exhaust is custom designed to provide an additional boost to power. It creates a specially-tuned, powerful new sound for the Powersport exhaust. Stainless steel construction assures long life. The Powersport California Custom uses elements from the classic Thunderbirds to create an exotic showcar.
Its beauty is more than just skin-deep, though. The ground effects package includes aerodynamic fender skirts that not only add a nostalgic flair, but also incorporate functional air scoops for rear brake cooling.
A special performance suspension package from Koni and a custom-designed Borla exhaust system enhance the performance. Dazzling 20-inch Giovanna wheels and low-profile Toyo tires produce an exotic look, without sacrificing roadability.
The powersport California Custom was designed to transform the otherwise bland new Thunderbird into an all-out custom show car. Using cues from the 50's and 60's, this appearance and performance add-on package puts the 'thunder' back in the Thunderbird. These side-by-side comparisons demonstrate the dramatic change.
If you've ever marveled at the fifties futurism of the "nuclear-powered" Ford Nucleon or admired a 1961 Thunderbird, you've seen the work of James R. Powers. If you were fascinated by Revell's see-through model kit of a V-8 engine, you can thank James Powers. If you've enjoyed vacationing in a modern motor home, well, Powers again.
As a youngster, he began making wooden model cars and even crafted a very successful soap-box derby racer. The crowning achievement of his formative years as an auto buff was winning a national scholarship award in the Fisher Body Craftsman's Guild competition.
Using the scholarship, Powers attended the Art Center College of Design. On a recruiting trip to the school in 1955, Alex Tremulis, head of Ford Advanced Design, hired Powers. They became good friends and Powers was a regular weekend guest of Tremulis and his wife at their home
At Ford, in 1956, Powers developed a series of Illustrations showing transportation of the future for PR use in magazines and newspapers around the country. The originals were hung in the Ford styling lobby and executive offices. Later they were shown in a Smithsonian exhibition.
Powers also did concept models of a nuclear-powered car, the Nucleon, and a flying car, the Volante, which were used for PR and later shown at the Smithsonian. The Nucleon is still on display at the Henry Ford Museum. The Volante was recently featured in a BBC documentary on flying cars.
After a couple years at Ford, Powers was assigned to the Ford Production Studio, where he contributed to early-Sixties Galaxies. He also spent time in the Thunderbird studio, where he fashioned the essential concept adopted for the all-new 1961 design.
Later, Powers was named manager of the Lincoln-Mercury Interiors Studio, where he served until leaving Ford in 1964. Powers left Ford to return to California, with its car-friendly climate (Powers had begun amassing a collection of favorite cars). He established a product design and advertising firm whose clients included automotive aftermarket firms, recreational-vehicle manufacturers, car dealers and toymakers.
Recently, Powers closed his firm and settled into semiretirement in South Pasadena, California. He's still surrounded by cars, though: He's converted a former office building to an apartment and a repository for his automobile collections, including 24 cars and over 2,000 model cars.
Portions excepted from February 2002 "Collectible Automobile."
...the thunderbird... it's early concepts
Retired Ford Designer James Powers occasionally takes on projects such as the design concepts shown here, which were done in 1996 for Jack Telnack, Ford Design VP, in the early stages of development of the new Thunderbird. These designs are more dramatic than the final production car, but now the spirit of these ideas is reflected in the Powersport "California Custom." Note the ground effects 'blades', the recessed grille, the aggressive hood scoop and fender skirts.
...from concept to reality
James Powers, as a Ford designer, created the original concepts for the dramatic '61 Thunderbird. Now, he felt the new Thunderbird could use more excitement and a more obvious 50's and 60's personality. So he designed a custom transformation package--one that would be available as add-on components that would not require bodywork. The original concept sketches shown here were modeled in clay on a stock Thunderbird. Molds were taken from the clay and refined to generate the tooling for production parts. When the parts are attached, the stock Thunderbird takes on a more aggressive personality--much like Powers' original '02 Thunderbird proposals.
Click Here For Powers Sport Cars
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