Thunderbird 1957

1957 Thunderbird finished in ABSOLUTELY gorgeous Torch Red that looks really spectacular, with the white interior and the full padded dash and redone instrument panel, the presentation of this 1957 THUNDERBIRD FOR SALE is really Concours Condition to be shown with mirrors presenting the underchassis, this is restored in a complete frame-off restoration accomplished to the highest standards both mechanically as well as cosmetically, VIN#D7FH204243 has a history shows an original Atlanta car, to find this 210 mile restoration from a low mileage, extremely solid car that is very rare to find in such condition, this 1957 Thunderbird features fully rebuilt original 312cid/4v engine with bay to show specifications, Fordomatic automatic transmission that has been rebuilt, power steering, power brakes, HIGHLY DETAILED ENGINE BAY AND FANTASTIC UNDERCHASSIS AND SUSPENSION, this 1957 THUNDERBIRD FOR SALE IS FANTASTIC, for sure has only 210 miles on the restoration that is finished and now ready for shows Summer 2009, restoration photos, original window sticker shows that it came from Wade Ford in Atlanta, then it came from a family in Roswell, Georgia that had been in the Ford business from 1921 to 1975, in the mid 2000s, they had the full frame-off, nut and bolt restoration completed, the last owner James Kenny out of Mt. Airy, Ga did the body, an engine expert rebuilt the original engine that included all proper crank being turned, bearings, pistons, rings, full head and valve work to make sure this engine is as new, correct intake manifold, the Holley carberator has been rebuilt and has the correct '57 air cleaner assembly, this then had tune work to make sure the mechanicals are excellent that was completed by Fraser Dante to finish the car, it is believed that the whole chassis has about 54,000 miles according to what was on the odometer before it was set back in the restoration, note the all new, complete wiring system that has been installed to make sure the headlight and the back up lights work, this car has really unbelievable detailing in the suspension and the braking areas, one must look at the photos of the springs, tie rod end, ball joints (SEE LINK) that shows the extent of the restoration, the quality of this car with all original body panels is on a par with the fabulous Thunderbirds restored by the Amos Minter family, the color is fabulous Torch Red, since the car was initially Colonial White, the decision was made in the restoration to use the 1955 Torch Red that is the best color complementing the white interior, the 'great eyes' are especially strong in this classic color from a fastidious collector that was chosen, to make sure the final product with the single stage red paint, the final work by Fraser Dante for Fall 2008 showing, the final 'finishing' by a top professional it looks amazing, this final buffing is only finished for now for Summer 2009 (SEE LINK), uprated black canvas Hartz softtop with all chrome trim is terrific, the restored top frame is better than new, the whole car is fully restored to trailered condition, fender skirts, stock power steering and power brakes that work perfectly, the rebuilt 312cid engine with 245 horsepower works perfectly, original rebuilt Holley carburetor, correct 1957 air cleaner, stock points ignition, silicone brake fluid, Dextron transmission for power steering, fluids, 20/50W motor oil, fresh spark plugs, all correct expensive show plug wires, new belts, new factory clamps, proper heater hoses, correct radiator hoses, 4-wheel power drums are fully rebuilt and just checked to make sure they are dry, photos document their condition, FoMoCo headlamps are used for authenticity, the suspension was completely redone, tie rods, ball joints, new bushings, brand new shocks were installed, note that very expensive rear leaf and front springs have just been installed, the work is so new that the rear springs have yet to settle, the final alignment is set for great handling, correct bias ply 7.50x14 whitewalls tires, the fluted 1957 hubcaps are very correct, the full off white dash has all the instruments redone, has the working Signal Seeking radio clock works sometimes, working factory tachometer, the underchassis has the gloss black frame with the floors being painted body color, the dual exhaust system under the car is authentic, the trunk is redone as factory and has the correct trunk cover, spare tire, jack and handle, note areas like the windshield are done perfectly with excellent rubber seals, the glass in better than new, the chrome and stainless trim applied beautifully, the 1955 to 1957 Thunderbird is the most desired collector car in the USA according to USA TODAY, the 1957 is the final year of the classic Thunderbird, it was and is an instant classic, this is a highly prized car to own, the quality is for sure the trailered class, this Thunderbird was just used in a photo shoot promoting a New York City Ford model, (LINK), being offered at well below costing of a top show car that also has really excellent mechanicals, manual.

Click Here For More Information On This Car

Memorial Day

We hope that all of our readers remember those who fought for our freedom on this day.

"Effie's"

"Effie's" FOR SALE

If you're on dial up modem, give the page a little while to load.







This 1954 "Effie" has the original running gear(original 223 6-Cylinder, Factory 3 Speed on the "tree"), a current California license, and was even featured in Low Rider Magazine! It has a chrome front end, and more chrome on the engine. The truck can be raised and lowered by electric pumps, has full running boards, custom and cruise lights, diamond tuck interior, AM/FM Cassette Radio, full Alarm, and in general is set up for show or cruise.

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This 1956 "Effie" has a redi striped cab, one paint job on vehicle (basecoat clear/coat), 59 Corvette, Las Vegas Blue/White pearl roof, new bed, rear fenders, fairlane flip nose, all sits on a 1973 Chevy pu chassis. CD player, new interior, steel rolled rear pan, drip rails molded, vent windows removed, pb/ps/pw, featured in Classic Truck Magazine at Syracuse Nationals by Chuck Vranas Drive Anywhere! (vehicle in New Jersey)

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This 1955 "Effie" has a 390, 4-speed, tilt steel front, tilt bed, frame off work (frame is red), lots of chrome, ps, pb, and is housed in the Tennessee area.

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This 1953 F100 Panel has a 351 Windsor Motor, C6, Eddlebrock carb & intake, Comp cam, MSD ignition, EZ wiring, Mustang II suspension, disc power brakes, leather bucket seats, and much more. Solid body from Arizona.

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This 1965 is clean and has low mileage - only 60,551, and was used as a farm truck. It has a very straight body and tight fitting doors. It's a stick shift with 3 on the tree and has a 340 engine that runs and drives well. It has new brakes, new fuel pump, new cap, rotor, condensor, spark plug wires and plugs, new shocks, and the carburetor has also been rebuilt.

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Click Here For Information on These Trucks.

Six Tips: How to Identify a Flood Damaged Car

Storms of 2008 Raise Concerns Over Resale of Flooded Cars

After a relatively slow start, the storm season 2008 was one of the most destructive in recent memory. One of the statistics that's not generally reported in such natural disasters is the number of cars that are damaged by the floodwaters, often having been completely submerged.

Three storms in September alone battered the U.S. and soaked hundreds of thousands of cars. The Atlantic seaboard was littered with flooded cars in the wake of Tropical Storm Hanna, while vehicles from the Gulf Coast, from Galveston to New Orleans, and all the way up through Indiana were soaked by Hurricane Gustav and Hurricane Ike.

Let's also not forget Hurricane Fay's August assault on Florida and the floods that ravaged Midwest states like Iowa, Missouri and Illinois in June, turning thousands of vehicles in those states into waterlogged wrecks.

The number of flood damaged cars on the market more than doubled from 2002-2006 and these powerful storms are likely to result in even more being resold -- often thousands of miles away from where they were damaged. A flooded car from Houston or Cedar Rapids, Iowa is more likely to wind up for sale somewhere in Arizona, New York or California than it is locally.

Despite the fact that most flood damaged vehicles from Hurricane Ike and other storms will be written off by insurance companies, some will make their way back onto the used car market, cleaned up and disguised as regular used cars with clean titles. Flood damage can be difficult to spot because typically there's little physical damage; a car that's been underwater literally will rot from the inside out.

Consumers shopping for a used car should be on high alert for signs of flood damage and potential fraud. Flood damage information is reported to Carfax from all 50 state DMVs and, as a service to consumers everywhere, is available for free at www.carfax.com/flood.

Carfax also offers these tips to help consumers spot signs of possible water damage:

- Check the trunk, glove compartment, dashboard, and below the seats for signs of water damage such as silt, mud or rust.

- Examine upholstery and carpeting closely; if it doesn't match the interior or fits loosely, it may have been replaced. Discolored, faded or stained materials could indicate water damage.

- Turn the ignition key and make sure that accessory and warning lights and gauges work properly. Make sure the air bag and ABS lights come on and go off.

- Test power and electronics systems such as interior/exterior lights, windows and door locks, radio, cigarette lighter, heater and air conditioner several times to make sure they work.

- Flex some of the wires beneath the dashboard. Wet wires will become brittle once dry and may crack.

- Take a whiff for musty odors or strong perfumes used to mask the smell of mildew.

Always ask the seller to see a detailed Carfax Vehicle History Report or order one at www.carfax.com. Carfax Reports can reveal many hidden problems from a vehicle's past, including flood titles, salvage, odometer problems and much more. Just as important, go to a trusted mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection before handing over any money.

Carfax [Source]

Summer Driving Tips: Air Conditioning

How to get that A/C blowing cold again?

This time of year I get a lot of questions about air conditioning repair. First of all, when describing your air conditioning problem, make sure to tell the tech exactly what is happening. Is the air too warm? Or is the air cold enough but low in volume? Warm air could be caused by a refrigerant leak, system blockage, or a faulty component such as a compressor. (The compressor is a pump that pumps the refrigerant chemical through the system.) Low air volume means that the air stream being fed into the vehicle cabin is impeded by something, such as a faulty air duct door or clogged air vent.

Here Are Some Common Questions I Get About Air Conditioning:

Do I need to recharge the A/C?

If your air conditioner needs recharging it is because the refrigerant chemical is leaking out of the system. Many people think that air conditioners naturally leak refrigerant, so they assume they have to take the car in every year for recharging. This is not true. The refrigerant is not supposed to leak. If the refrigerant is low, find and repair the leak. There should be no reason for a recharge.

Should I take it to the dealer or can I go to an independent repair shop?

If the vehicle is still under the factory warranty, then go to the dealer so the repair is covered under warranty. If out of warranty, go to whatever qualified shop you desire.

How long can I go without repairing it? What will happen?

Here's my answer to this very familiar question: A/C systems fail when any of the following things happen:

Refrigerant Leaks: Leaks from ruptured hoses or poor connections result in system shutdown. Loss of refrigerant oil due to a leak can cause compressor failure.

Dirt: Anything other than refrigerant chemical and oil in an air conditioning system is considered dirt. Dirt can cause seized compressor bearings, expansion valve failure, decomposition of refrigerant and oil, and corrosion of metal parts.

Restrictions: These can happen for a number of reasons. The most frequent? Dirt, metal shavings, powered desiccant (moisture absorbing material), and foreign matter from the atmosphere. These substances cause high pressure, heat buildup, and loss of lubrication within the A/C system. The deadly duo (pressure, heat) cause "O" ring decomposition, brittle A/C hoses, and seized compressor bearings. Loss of lubrication can result in compressor failure.

Moisture: Combined with metal and refrigerant, moisture can cause the formation of oxides and acids, a sure death sentence to any A/C system. Additionally, moisture can freeze up expansion valves and powered desiccants.

All these items cause A/C system failure. How long can you go with an inoperative system before A/C failure? As long as it takes for these conditions to set in and cause failure, and it isn't long.

How do I know if my car uses R12 (Freon) or R134A?

There are two refrigerant chemicals typically used for automotive air conditioning: R12 (or Freon), and R134A. If the system uses R134A the input taps will be clearly tagged as such.

Does the air conditioner work the same as the heater, only in reverse?

The heater in your car is nothing more than a small radiator. Hot water passes through what is called the heater core. Heat emanates off the core and this hot air blow into the car to heat the cabin. The air conditioner operates much differently. The A/C system uses an evaporator core. The refrigerant chemical is pumped through the core (which is much like a small radiator or heater core). The evaporator carries the refrigerant chemical into the car where an interesting exchange takes place ... cold air is exchanged for the hot air in the car. The refrigerant chemical saps the hot air out of the car by absorption and exchanges it for cold air. The cold air that is radiated from the evaporator is blown into the car's ventilation system, cooling you down. Dehumidification also takes place during the process. Have you have ever wondered where all that water comes from under your car? It comes from the dehumidification process while the A/C is running.

AOL Auto's [Source]

1960 Ford Sunliner

1960 Ford Sunliner

If you need a little lime for your Tequila, Armando Chavez's 1960 Ford Sunliner may just be what you're looking for. This "Big-Time" resto and custom is going to be just the thing to cruise to MargaritaVille in on a lazy California summer evening. The final package will include a high-performance 351 Cleveland motor, a C-6 automatic transmission, and a 9-inch Currie rear-end with 4-link. All for corners will be air-bagged and equipped with Stainless Steel Brake Corp. disc brakes. The interior will be handled by Mangus at Custom Auto Interiors. And, as the artists conception suggests, it will be slammed right to the ground. We may even chop the rag top.

A new day in the sun...



This 60 Ford Sunliner has certainly seen better days in the sun, but today is a new day and it's time for an automotve makeover.



Disassembly is underway and Richard catalogs all the parts as they come off.





The Sunliner is HUGE car, but it has a teeny little trunk. Go figure. I guess they needed room for those massive horizontal stabilizers. From the rear it sort of has that jet fighter look going for it.





In spite of the surface rust, the metal in this beast is pretty solid and won't require lots of repair.



Clipped Clip





To get that slammed look will require major modifications to the front end. To start with, we're getting rid of it.



Now that is one heavy-duty frame. Most rucks don't have frames that big and sturdy.





Back to our front end. The basis for this front end will be a TCI Mustang II which we will modify to suit the needs of the Sunliner.





The only boxing needed on this frame will be on the portions we fabricate ourselves. This one is already boxed and has an I-beam cross-member. It would take a whole lot torque and horsepower to tweak this baby.



That frame probably weighs more than most of today's cars...

Bodywork Commences



Fortunately, this body came to us very straight and does not require major work straightening and repairing sheet metal.









Just some touch-up work and smoothing out some problems areas.









Getting the proper slant on things...





Part of this project includes slanting the windshield and recessing it into dash. This will have the same effect as if we had chopped an inch or so out of the frame.



The body is back on the frame and the fenders are getting worked over and fitted to the new front end.









Before removing the windshield, a support was welded in to keep the body from bending or twisitng out of shape.



The windshield is back in place. Time to get the top up and properly positioned.



Bracing is installed in the windshield to so it will keep its shape as well. It has been recessed and welded back into place.









Since the windshield has been moved, so must the rag-top hardware. You can see where the top mounts were originally located.

Back from the body shop.





A TCI Mustang II front clip with power rack will keep things running true up front.





A No-Limit hood flip kit will help get the sunliner noticed at shows. With that much space, Mr. Chavez can rent the hood as a billboard between shows.





A better look at the flip kit. The kit used is designed for 55-57 trucks according to No-Limit.









The disc brakes (13") are from SSBC, and will go on all four corners.





A Vintage Air AC and heater system will handle climate control when the top is up (it's not always sunny in California...). That's a Kugel power brakes booster and pedel setup next to it.





The old firewall was cut out and replaced by a custom one that has been cleaned up.





Check Out this Website For The Finished Project